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Ideal
incubation conditions lead to the long desired
hatching of the
babies.
It is indicated by the transpiration of the eggs. The white eggshell
turns darker and little water drops appear on top of
it . From
now on the eggs need to be checked daily. After opening the shell by
slashing it with an egg tooth, the
animal releases itself from the egg
integument. That process can take a couple of hours.
Egg
after hatching
The entire
clutch hatches over a couple of days. As soon as the
animals released
themselves, they are taken out of the incubator. When you look closely
you will see that some of the egg’s inside remained on the chameleon.
The so called “yolk bag” will be ejected after a few days. After
hatching the animals are well developed and are able to move like
adult chameleons. They will shoot for food and drink like adults very
soon as well.
The
babies are to be accommodated separately. Therefore I use a see
trough plastic bottle with cut off top and bottom (i.e. a 1,5l water
bottle) which is covered
witch a translucent full – fashioned stocking on
both ends. The bottle should be furnished with twigs for climbing as
well as with leave covered twigs. The provisional terrarium has the
advantage to need little space only
a fact not to be
underestimated.
Nevertheless it is big enough for the
animal and holds food supply
always in
its
reach.
The breeding terrarium is illuminated by a spot light (max. 40 watt)
whereas the temperature should stay 3 – 5 °C underneath the
temperature recommended for adult animals.
The
young animals
drink by licking the sprayed water from the plants surfaces.
Spaying 3 – 4 times daily with lukewarm water is sufficient. During
the first few days one should feed fruit flies or micro crickets (fed
with high-valued food or well powdered). Food insects should always
have a palatable size.
With achieving the 2nd month of living the chameleon leaves
the critical time behind. The sexual maturity is reached after about 6
month but another 6 month should pass until mating for the first time.
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